The Dominican Republic is the most diverse country in the Caribbean. Besides beautiful, sandy beaches, one can find high mountains here, taller than the Polish Tatras, rushing rivers, regions resembling another planet, and tropical jungles. And I probably haven’t even listed all the places that characterize the island. This time, I traveled to the Dominican Republic privately, not for business. I decided that during my trip along the eastern coast, I would visit places you haven’t heard about from local guides. Some might say that the places mentioned here shouldn’t be included. However, I believe everyone will find something for themselves. I invite you to read on!
Higuey
Salvaleón de Higuey, also known as Higuey, is a city in the eastern Dominican Republic on the Yuma River. It is primarily the country’s main pilgrimage center and a place of worship for the patroness of the Dominican Republic – Our Lady of Altagracia (Nuestra Senora de la Altagracia). This is where the famous concrete basilica with arches designed to resemble the praying Virgin Mary is located. The basilica was built over 19 years and was finally completed in 1971. In addition to the aforementioned basilica, Higuey also features a colonial-era church, likely built in 1567.
Near the church, there is a local market. It resembles the 10th-anniversary stadium in its heyday. You can buy everything there. It is loud and humid. Upon entering, you are hit by the smell of fermented fruits mixing with the scent of fish, meat, and fried oil. A person experiencing an exotic country for the first time will certainly be surprised. Believe me, you can feel the true Dominican atmosphere there. Locals encourage you to buy their products, play dominoes, and discuss the taste of the rum they are drinking.
Macao Cave
The second place worth visiting during a trip to Higuey is Macao Cave. The road to the cave is very good, so there is no fear of damaging your car’s suspension. It is best to go there in the morning to avoid tour groups. Entry to the cave is free. Wooden stairs lead inside. Remember to bring your swimming trunks. The cave is filled with fresh water, slightly cooler than the ocean. When it’s hot outside, cooling off is very pleasant. The depth of the cave pool (if that’s what it’s called) is 8 meters, although it doesn’t look like it at first glance. One gets the impression that after jumping in, you will hit the bottom. Nothing could be further from the truth. Getting in and out of the water is easy. There are ropes you can grab onto for support. Drinks and food can be purchased on site.
El Chicho and Padre Nuestro
These are two caves located in Cotubanama Park at the entrance to Bayahibe on the left side. When turning into the small parking lot (https://goo.gl/maps/2fb2UyBAESQhHvP4A), be careful, as the asphalt is much higher than the ground, and you could scrape the undercarriage. You can safely leave your car in the aforementioned parking lot. At the park entrance, there is a small booth with a bored guard. The ticket costs only 200 RD$ (Dominican pesos), which is about 15 Polish zlotys. The walk to the first cave takes about 45 minutes.
The path is well-trodden, so you shouldn’t get lost. Here and there, you can still see damaged signs and old footbridges that will show you the way. The path winds between tall cacti and endemic plants. You can encounter many species of butterflies, lizards, and iguanas there. We even met goats along the way. Exactly. There is a farm nearby that raises goats and chickens. Remember to bring your swimming trunks. You descend into El Chicho via rather steep stairs. Caution is advised, as they can be damp and slippery. Inside, a huge chamber partially filled with water awaits us. I wouldn’t be exaggerating if I said it’s the size of several sports pools. It’s a good idea to bring a flashlight to illuminate it. The water is incredibly pleasant. You can relax in it after a hike in the full sun. The advantage of this cave is that not many tourists come here. When we entered the cave, besides us, there were two young Dominican couples and an American couple. It’s an amazing adventure, especially when you consider that before Columbus, the indigenous Taino people used the network of caves for rituals, and also, just like Dominicans today, they drew water from them. There are over 20 known caves within the National Park.
We will reach the next cave in about 15 minutes. Along the way, we will pass the aforementioned farm, where I was captivated by a huge orchid I had never seen before. After passing the farm, the Padre Nuestro cave is on the right side. It’s a small ‘puddle’ where we can soak as if in a jacuzzi. It may not have bubbles, but the surroundings will allow us to relax. The Padre Nuestro cave is more suitable for divers. Leszek Gimel, co-owner of Casa Dominicana and a professional diver running the ScubaDominicana school in the Dominican Republic, surprised us by saying that it’s possible to swim into this cave. Indeed, there was a small crevice there. He certainly wouldn’t have convinced me to do it, although the accounts from his stories are impressive. The cave is over 800m3! Four divers cannot illuminate it. For those interested and those with claustrophobia (like me), I’m leaving a link to a video where you can admire the caves from the comfort of your armchair 😉. From the Padre Nuestro cave, the return journey will take approximately 30 minutes. Believe me, it’s worth going there!
Link to the video of Padre Nuestro cave – https://tiny.pl/wvhcv
Cueva de las Maravillas (Cave of Wonders)
Cueva de las Maravillas is located on the way from Bayahibe to Santo Domingo. It is a rarely visited place by tourists. Entry to the caves with a guide costs 200 pesos per person. Tours are organized in small groups. On site, there is a large parking lot, a shop, and a cafe. The surrounding gardens are very well maintained. The cave is managed by an independent body collaborating with the Ministry of Environment. The place was opened to tourists in 2003.
The cave is located approximately 25 meters underground. Illuminated walkways lead through the caves, and the walls are lit by motion-sensor lamps. The entrance is very impressive, as a huge chamber opens before us. Inside, many well-preserved paintings by the indigenous Taino people remain. Photography inside is prohibited. Upon exiting, the guide will lead us to a place where iguanas are kept. Interestingly, in the Dominican Republic, the iguana has been listed as an endangered animal, mainly due to people hunting and consuming them, especially in the western part of the island. The entire tour will take about two hours.
Botanical Garden in Santo Domingo
Probably none of the companies offering excursions in the Dominican Republic offer tours there. Usually, they follow a standard program, bypassing this wonderful place. The park is located near one of the metro lines, so if you don’t have a car, getting there is not difficult. There is also a large parking lot next to the garden, so parking is available.
The decision to build was made by Joaquín Balaguer, who aimed to rehabilitate the country after the dictatorship of Rafael Trujillo. The park was founded in 1976 and named after Rafael María Moscoso, a Dominican botanist who cataloged the island’s flora. Interestingly, the garden was designed by Benjamin Paiewonsky, who has Polish-Lithuanian roots. You are probably curious how a person of such origin ended up in the Caribbean. Well, the aforementioned dictator Trujillo wanted to whiten the Dominican population. During World War II, he brought over 300 Polish-Lithuanian Jews to the country, who founded the town of Sosúa in the northern part of the country.
The symbol of the garden is the ‘guanito‘ leaf, a palm tree found in the garden. The place is huge, covering an area of 104 km2! Locals come here to run, schools organize trips, and the garden also houses a research center and a butterfly house. A ticket costs 400 pesos per person. The price includes a train ride through the garden and a ticket to the museum showcasing the types of ecosystems on the island. It is worth taking advantage of both additional attractions. The guide will tell us about the vegetation found in different parts of the island. The train is also a good solution for a quick tour of the garden, although walking allows you to see much more. The train will take us, among other places, to the Japanese garden. The place is very well maintained. I have been to several botanical gardens around the world, but the one in Santo Domingo is unlike any other. For nature lovers, it is a must-see during a visit to the capital.
Laguna Bavaro and Mangrove Forests
This is a small lake located right next to the resorts, near Cabeza del Toro. Access to the site is very easy. You can leave your car in the nearby parking lot (https://goo.gl/maps/jjoWyUp7DcRJoCLb7). Entry is completely free. You can rent kayaks there to paddle on the lake. Unfortunately, there was no one there to offer them to us. The attraction of this place is the mangrove forests, through which a path leads to the lake. A large population of pelicans can be found by the lake, having settled here despite the local infrastructure. When walking the path, it is best to wear comfortable shoes. The terrain is marshy, but it is not a problem. Along the way, we can observe growing noni fruits, sizable spiders, geckos, and lizards. The mangrove forest itself forms a tunnel that ultimately leads to a pier where you can sit, rest, and admire pelicans diving into the lagoon in search of food.
Horseback Riding to Limón Beach
The Dominican Republic has its own horse breed – the Creole. This breed was brought to South America by the Spanish in the 16th century. Many people offer horseback riding tours. It is important to choose companies that organize tours with well-cared-for and well-maintained horses. In addition to the guide on horseback, you will be accompanied by squires who will join you during your trip to the Dominican Republic and make the journey more enjoyable by telling stories about local products and history.
One such recommended place is the French Rancho Playa, a few kilometers beyond Las Terrenas. Regardless of your riding skill level, you can go on such a ride. The basic tour lasts an hour and a half and costs 65 USD. The standard route leads through palm and banana groves. The highlight is riding on a deserted beach. An excellent experience! On the beach, you can spend some time and enjoy the views. The ranch organizes tours to the hills, through the jungle, full-day excursions, and horseback riding lessons.
Contact details for Nicole: +1 829 868 5233
El Limón Waterfall – on foot
The Limón waterfall is located in the center of the Peninsula. From the town of El Limón to the starting point (Rancho Limón Adventure), it takes less than 10 minutes. You can safely leave your car there. Parking costs 200 pesos. The trip to the waterfall costs nothing! We advise against using the horses offered by locals for the ride to the waterfall. The horses are in very poor condition, and the route to the waterfall is arduous and tiring for them. I appeal to you to walk to the waterfall. The route is very easy and will not take more than an hour. Moreover, you will only ride a horse for part of the route. The last section, which requires descending 200 stairs, must be walked anyway.
The path to the waterfall is very well marked. Other people will also be going there, so you certainly won’t get lost. Most of the way, we will walk along the river. The path leads us through a picturesque jungle with an abundance of tropical vegetation. Along the way, we can make a stop at a smaller waterfall. Upon reaching the destination, we will encounter booths where Dominicans will offer us piña coladas, photo sessions, and souvenirs. Remember, admission to the waterfall is free! We still have about 200 steps to descend, and we will be transported to an amazing place that we have only seen in David Attenborough documentaries. It is worth swimming under the waterfall. The water is refreshing, and even the most cold-sensitive people will manage to get in. You have to be careful, as the stones are slippery, and it’s easy to lose your balance. It’s best to go on the trip early in the morning to avoid crowds. The fewer tourists there are, the more impressive the waterfall is.
Playa Frontón – on foot
Playa Frontón is the easternmost point on the Samaná Peninsula. There are only two ways to get there. One option is to rent a boat that will take you to the location. The second is a hike through the jungle. Both options are interesting and guarantee an unforgettable adventure. I had the opportunity to try both variants and I can say that trekking to the beach is incomparably better.
Boat Trip
It is advisable to go there in the morning. On the beach in Las Galeras, many people offer cruises to this very place. For 80 USD, guides will take us to the aforementioned Frontón beach, Madama beach, show us caves, and guarantee an unforgettable surfing experience on the waves. The boat trip out to the open sea passes through a bay where waves rise to approximately two meters. The skills of the guys who operate the boats are very good, so there’s nothing to worry about. However, it’s worth placing a loose life jacket on the seat and putting loose items into a backpack. The helmsmen will also sail along the high, rocky coast, showing hidden caves. The cruise to the beach takes about 30 minutes.
Trekking
The hike to Frontón beach takes about an hour. It can easily be done without a guide, despite warnings from locals telling stories about villains robbing people on the path. The hike begins at Boca del Diablo (https://goo.gl/maps/TW86TTpDuC3fekak7), where there is a guarded parking lot. The Ministry of Tourism has ensured that cars are watched over. It is not difficult to get to the place, but it is advisable to have a car with higher clearance. Our KIA Rio was defeated by the potholed road, which is why we used a guide who drove us to the spot on a motorbike and accompanied us throughout the trip. Along the way, we passed abandoned houses. This is a sign of people displaced by previous governments who robbed them of their land. Driving to the parking lot, you will also pass cannons and walls, which are remnants of a Frenchman’s failed plan. Apparently, he wanted to build a restaurant there with an ocean view. Upon arriving at the site, on the left side, there is a marble quarry. It makes an incredible impression. We recommend going inside, standing next to the blocks that are cut into perfect cuboids. Apparently, the marble blocks are so heavy that only one piece is loaded onto a truck. After reaching the parking lot, it is worth stopping at the aforementioned Boca del Diablo (Devil’s Mouth). This is an opening in a rock shelf into which sea waves crash. The hole is funnel-shaped, causing the incoming wave to create a huge noise and eject seawater up to 1 kilometer high. The sound produced by the opening is terrifying, which is probably why Dominicans gave this place such a name. Due to the salt in the rising water, nearby radio and internet masts must be replaced every year.
The path to the beach is very well marked. The Ministry of Tourism has placed information boards along the path about the nature of this place. During the journey, we will encounter large colorful butterflies, snakes, and beautiful tropical nature that one can gaze at for hours. One is transported to a completely different place. Along the way, our guide climbed a palm tree and picked a fresh coconut for us. As is known, coconut water is rich in minerals and very hydrating. We also recommend scooping out the pulp from the inside. While we were enjoying the coconut water, whales began to jump out of the ocean! They put on a beautiful spectacle that cannot be described in words. We were lucky to visit the Dominican Republic during the breeding season of these magnificent mammals. Mainly a young humpback whale, but also its mother, jumped out of the water. The father swims in the depths, guarding his family. This is another advantage of a walking tour in this area, as humpbacks are more likely to jump out of the water when there are no boats approaching them. If you want to see humpbacks in the Dominican Republic, we encourage this method more than watching them from a boat. All you need is binoculars, a good spot, water, and some snacks, and you are sure to encounter whales. During the trek, our guide gave us another surprise and caught a snake for us. In the Dominican Republic, there are very few venomous snakes and spiders, making the country very safe in this regard.
When we arrived at the beach, I was surprised. The last time, I found it somewhat littered and neglected. This time, it was completely different. The beach is cared for by a family who runs a small restaurant on site where you can order lunch. You should do this immediately upon arrival, as products are delivered from the nearby town of Las Galeras. The price for a chicken lunch is 700 pesos, for fish 1000 pesos, and for lobster 2000 pesos. The beach itself is incredibly impressive. It offers views of the rest of the island. Mother Nature created this small beach by a high cliff where vultures nest. It is also an excellent place for climbing enthusiasts, as the rock is prepared for it. In the water, there is a fairly large coral reef with many colorful fish